The White House
Stained Glass Basketry
1574 So Wilson Rd
Radcliff, KY 40160
Granny's Chair Side Basket
H 6 ½" W X 16" L X 8 ½"
3/8" FO CUT 9 @ 39" EACH FOR LENGTH SPOKES
3/4" F CUT 8 @ 39" EACH FOR LENGTH SPOKES
3/8" FO CUT 3 @ 29" EACH FOR WIDTH SPOKES
3/4" F CUT 4 @ 29" EACH FOR WIDTH SPOKES
#2 FOR TWINING AROUND THE BOTTOM (OPTIONAL)
5/8" F FOR WEAVERS
1/4" FO FOR WEAVERS (USED TO TWILL WITH-MIGHT WANT TO DYE)
½" HALF ROUND 45" FOR THE OUTSIDE RIM (THIS SIZE MAKES THE BASKET MORE STURDY, BUT YOU CAN USE 5/8" FO)
5/8" FO 45" FOR THE INSIDE RIM
1/4" FO 60" FOR THE LASHING
#6 ROUND 21" TO GO BETWEEN THE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE RIM
8" HANDLE INSERT TYPE
This basket is a little more difficult to work with because of using the 3/8" flat oval reed, but it's definitely worth the extra effort.
Always soak the reed in water till you can fold without the reed splitting.
Mark the centers of the spokes on the wrong side (side that will separate a little when you bend-right side will be smoother).
Lay out the length spokes first, alternating the 3/8" FO with the 3/4" F, hold down one end with a spoke weight.
With a 3/8" FO, starting at the center, weave using the over/under weave.
Alternating with the 3/4" F. Leave a 3/8 space between each spoke (use a 3/8" scrap piece of reed to use as a spacer).ALWAYS SPRAY WITH WATER TO KEEP WET WHILE WORKING.
Twine the bottom of the base to hold it together. SOAK BOTTOM WELL- upset the
spokes to start the sides (Bend each spoke over bottom of basket). May want to use clothes pens in the corners to keep the spokes in place.
1ST ROW with 5/8" F, starting behind a spoke, making sure that the spoke on the bottom of the basket is on the opposite side. When finished with the row-hide
the weaver behind the beginning point and hiding over 3RD spoke.
2ND-4TH ROWS- Starting on the opposite side with each row weave like in ROW 1. PACK DOWN ALL ROWS AS YOU ARE WEAVING.
Twilled section - You must cut one corner spoke in half lengthwise (this now becomes another spoke). Trim the end of a 1/4" F weaver tapering it for about 3" . Starting behind a spoke-weave over 2, behind 2 until you run out of reed. Start new reed by hiding as in row 1. Continue weaving, pulling a little tighter with each row (last row will only have about a 1/4" space between spokes), till the twilled part measures 5 ½". Re-soak the top. Cut the spokes off that are to the inside of the basket:-all others are to be folded over last weaving row. Cut off the spokes leaving
enough room to be hidden between the rows (This process is called cut and tuck).
INSERT THE HANDLE AT THE CENTER POINT OF BASKET.
Cut the 1/2" Half Round (must be soaked longer than the other reed to have the pliability needed) to fit around the basket with about 2 ½" in excess. Do the same with the 5/8" FO for the inside of the basket. Trim and sand the lap over area and clip together- both the inside and the outside of the basket. Cut the round reed to fit between the two. Be sure all fits together well. Take the end of the 3/16" FO and hide between the inside and outside rim (I usually go up and down once over the last row woven) making sure that the rounded part of the lashing is going to be up when going over the rim-go between each spoke pulling tight. End lashing by hiding the same way it was started.
Finish be spraying with clear Weaver's Stain
I designed this basket for my Granny to go beside her chair to hold her quilting and stitching paraphernalia. Granny has lost most of her sight and gave the basket back to me. I use it beside my chair to hold all the patterns and recipes that I find. I really like this useful basket.